From: Rad Davis Subject: Re: Beaten ??!! To: Virtual Vairs Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 12:14:18 -0500 (EST) Kenneth D. Rolt wrote: > Rad Davis wrote: > > Fortunately my father DNF'd all three times (same reason) in his > > hotrodded, swaybar'd rampside or he would've blown us both off the trophy > > list in IS4. > > ahhh... a grudge match is forthcoming no doubt. Well, the next time I see my parents I will hopefully have arrived by way of the friendly skies... We're planning to see them (at their place) in March, when Julia has spring break. So no rematch probably until something like the VA vair fair or our Fall Affair. > I'm surprised the bronze filter in each carb, plus the inine > filter, didn't catch the sediment. Six months ago I was too. But the sediment is VERY fine. I think that some of the drivability problems I've experienced may be related to the stones crudding up. I swapped the stones about a month (two or three tanks) ago--have sonicated and incinerated another set and will swap them in when the temperature gets above freezing (don't you love the feeling of sub-freezing gasoline on your hands--I know I look forward to it...) The inline filter is kind of long in the tooth--maybe I'll get another. But since it's on the intake side of the fuel pump I dare not install a really good (fuel injection) filter. > > you'll have to post the gas tank drop-n-flush to the group. it > would be worthwhile for those (like me) who haven't done one > but will have to (eventually). > I'm not worried too much about it, tho I do have to pull the shift linkage apart to get at the tank, since it's a manual transmission '65. A local club member has already loaned me a quart can of gas-tank goo, so I'll put that in when I drop the tank. The gas gauge sender has been inop for about two years now, so that'll be an improvement regardless (keep in mind that the FC's dip tube/sender port is on TOP of the tank--can only remove by dropping it). > > yep.... always wondered about the vagaries of carb rotation to > prevent flooding/starving in hard turns. certainly you want to > make sure you have fuel over the jet during accel (so the jet wants > to be rearward) and under deccel it doesn't matter. but in cornering, > it's not obvious to me that carb rotation will solve anything > because one side still starves. me thinks that proper vents for > each carb, and having the jets rearward, are what you really want. > the rest seems like folklore and fiction.... correct me if you have > a good explaination. We went around about this one some last summer. I think a lot of the carburetor oddities of the stock corvair layout are caused by the dynamics of the fuel sloshing around inside that over-large float bowl. I've noticed that I'll get secondary cut-out on the Corsa when I get on it hard just after the apex of a turn. But it'll start working again before the acceleration (angular and linear) eases up. Why? Dunno. I've been meaning to epoxy some baffling (a` la oil-pan) inside the float bowls. Maybe also raise the level of the two side wells so that the main jet is the lowest thing in the bowl (after I clean the crud out of the tank--if I do the TWINKI first). Will it help? Dunno. But I can always get the epoxy out with a little liquid N2 if I don't like it. > and as you point out, a little speck of sediment is enough to > stall the car, as well as make you *think* you have fuel starvation > from fuel sloshing (rather than a blocked jet). The TWINKI sediment is fine enough that it doesn't block the jet. It settles out inside the little aluminum surge cup inside the main emulsion well. When the bottom hole of the cluster dip-tube is covered up with crap you can get some really weird behavior. The hand-on-the-air-horn trick will usually vacuum the stuff out. In autocrossing the problem is that all the stuff that has settled under the floats gets stirred up in the gas and plugs everything up. > > how old is that in-line filter? - Ken Elderly enough that it's getting changed when the stones get done--but it was about 3 months old at the fall affair. Rad. --------- Date: Wed, 8 Feb 1995 12:55:11 -0500 To: Virtual Vairs From: GregH@iap.com (IAP Research) Subject: Re: Beaten ??!! Rad wrote: > >I'm not worried too much about it, tho I do have to pull the shift >linkage apart to get at the tank, since it's a manual transmission '65. >A local club member has already loaned me a quart can of gas-tank goo, so >I'll put that in when I drop the tank. The gas gauge sender has been >inop for about two years now, so that'll be an improvement regardless >(keep in mind that the FC's dip tube/sender port is on TOP of the >tank--can only remove by dropping it). I've got the same problem on '64 manual Corvan. Unfortunately, new senders aren't readily available (last time I checked) so that will be a "try to repair the old coil" job. >We went around about this one some last summer. I think a lot of the >carburetor oddities of the stock corvair layout are caused by the >dynamics of the fuel sloshing around inside that over-large float bowl. >I've noticed that I'll get secondary cut-out on the Corsa when I get on >it hard just after the apex of a turn. But it'll start working again >before the acceleration (angular and linear) eases up. Why? Dunno. I've >been meaning to epoxy some baffling (a` la oil-pan) inside the float >bowls. Maybe also raise the level of the two side wells so that the main >jet is the lowest thing in the bowl (after I clean the crud out of the >tank--if I do the TWINKI first). Will it help? Dunno. But I can always >get the epoxy out with a little liquid N2 if I don't like it. Jim Schardt tried the "epoxy baffles in the carb bowls" routine two years ago on the Yenko Stinger that he vintage races. It worked great until the epoxy started to chip and disintegrate inside the carb bowls. (Supposedly heat & gasoline resistant epoxy...) Then it didn't run well at all, clogged jets and all. So the baffles were removed and all traces of epoxy chipped out between two practice sessions up at Mid Ohio during the Vintage Grand Prix in '93. His latest attempt at preventing cutout is this: He took some old carb bowls, and cut the tops off (about 1/2 inch worth) square (using appropriate fixturing) to make a "spacer" in effect making the carb bowls deeper. Then he polished the insides of the spacers, etc. to get the air flow smooth. The operating theory being that if he can get the float level high enough, the jets won't uncover. We'll know in another six weeks or so if it works. Greg Hanlin From: Rad Davis Subject: fuel system To: Virtual Vairs Date: Thu, 9 Feb 1995 11:59:47 -0500 (EST) IAP Research (Greg Hanlin) wrote: > > I've got the same problem on '64 manual Corvan. Unfortunately, new senders > aren't readily available (last time I checked) so that will be a "try to > repair the old coil" job. > You may be luckier than you think. I'm just about positive from the behaviour of the gauge needle that my float doesn't anymore. Now the rheostat may be a custom part, but I bet that most any creative codger can come up with a functional float. I *do* have a rusty, nasty spare dip tube and sender from a parts van, but I won't be able to turn loose of it even if I don't need it because I own it in common with the guy who bought the other half of the parts car. I think I'll get one of the plastic floats off of a later GM product and attatch that to the float arm--it won't corrode like the brass ones did. > > Jim Schardt tried the "epoxy baffles in the carb bowls" routine two years > ago on the Yenko Stinger that he vintage races. It worked great until the > epoxy started to chip and disintegrate inside the carb bowls. (Supposedly > heat & gasoline resistant epoxy...) Then it didn't run well at all, clogged > jets and all. So the baffles were removed and all traces of epoxy chipped > out between two practice sessions up at Mid Ohio during the Vintage Grand > Prix in '93. Hmmm. I think I may heat/immersion test some epoxies before I go this route. But I still think it has lots of potential, and I know that lots of other folks have sucessfully baffled/modified carbs with epoxy. > > His latest attempt at preventing cutout is this: He took some old carb > bowls, and cut the tops off (about 1/2 inch worth) square (using appropriate > fixturing) to make a "spacer" in effect making the carb bowls deeper. Then > he polished the insides of the spacers, etc. to get the air flow smooth. > The operating theory being that if he can get the float level high enough, > the jets won't uncover. We'll know in another six weeks or so if it works. To be honest, I think I like the epoxy idea better. Or maybe a press-in sheet-metal insert. I'm curious to see if this one works, however. Rad. ---------